First part: the basics

Before we start: a bit of background

1. Installing Arabeske and starting it.

This is very simple if you've installed Java JRE1.3.0 or later:  just copy the .jar file to a folder of your choice and double-click on it. On some Unices it may be necessary to type:

              java -jar arabeskexxx.jar

or

              jre -jar arabeskexxx.jar

That's all; we're ready to go now!

2.Getting ready to start.

Starting Arabeske for the first time will get you several windows as shown below.

The configuration window (As you can see in it's title bar) - is where you'll be doing the initial setting up, while the drawing area is for making (if you're the typical user) the rough framework of your pattern. And again back to the configuration window to polish it up and export it. The object properties window allows a fine tuning of every object: lines, textures etc.

Adjusting the grid and snap:
Like in many CAD,3d, and image-editing programs, the grid is snappable. You can adjust the size in the window that comes up on clicking on the Preferences -> Settings menu. For the purpose of this tutorial let's adjust the linear spacing (the rectangular grid, so to say) to a large figure like 250 units and the angular spacing (the angular snap - also called a polar snap) to 15 degrees.

3. Choosing your symmetry

The symmetry group is selected through the symmetry -> p4/p4m/p4g/p3.... This forms the basis of the pattern you make. Choosing the right symmetry can save you a lot of extra steps - or even from getting it wrong! But don't worry if you don't understand it immediately: a little bit of playing around and you'll be rolling along just fine!

A simplified explanation (more details can be found in the specific part) would be as follows. The patterns are basically formed by taking the link (or line) that you draw and making rotated copies of them around their respective centers (the nodes). Thus the numbers in the names (3, 4 or 6) refer to the number of rotated copies made. The letters following the number indicates a bit of a variation: m for mirror or g for glided-mirror (which is, glided forward then mirrored).

A note here: Angles are measured counter-clockwise. Thus, east = 0 degrees, north 90, west 180, and south 270 degrees.

4. The nodes

This is another name for the centers of the rotation circles (around which your rotated copies are made) . These are helper circles for drawing the polar links. Just a minute while I explain this:

Each time you draw a primary or secondary node you automatically, as it were, created these 3/4/6 rotated copies of it (depending on whether you choose a p3/p4/p6 symmetry) along the circumference of this huge circle of 1000 units radius. Every polar link you draw will, in turn, produce these 3/4/6 copies. These form your base pattern.

The rectangular links are links drawn from the x,y coordinates of any point to any other point. On the other hand, the polar links are constrained to points on the circumference of the nodes. While this may appear as a limitation to you now, actually it is just the opposite: you'll understand why when you do the tutorial at the end.

Note: The nodes and grid are only helper objects - to aid you in designing the pattern; they will not show up in the exported image.

The best way to understand this effect is to actually try. Click Node, then on the drawing area, click around the center and drag the mouse until you get a 250 units radius circle. Do this, and you'll see the copy-cat NODES make their appearance.Now zoom out a bit so we can see the overall picture clearer: Zoom -> 1/3x or 1/4x (see Fig3 below). Click Polar and draw a link: you'll see it's (rotated) copies appearing at the node -and the same design being repeated at every copy-node. These form your pattern. Every link that is drawn adds to the intricacy of the pattern. And you can produce quite complicated patterns with just the use of these primary nodes.

Here it may be mentioned that the p3 and p6 symmetry groups look deceptively identical when there is no link drawn. However, when you do so, the differences become obvious.

Now, let's say you want more complicated patterns and more flexibility. This is where the secondary nodes come into play. Like the name suggests, these are nodes placed halfway between the primary nodes. For instance, in p4, the main secondary node is placed at a 45 degree angle to the main primary node./p>

Try this: select Node, click at a point roughly northeast of your primary node, and drag the mouse to enlarge the node. If, by mistake, you draw a primary node itself, don't worry: just click on the object properties window and change the node from primary to secondary.

Every time you draw a node, it is given a number and a corresponding color for easy identification.You should also see it's details (type/number/radius) appearing in brief in the object list in the configuration window. For easy editing you can also click and change directly in the object properties window.

5. The target angles.

A polar link is drawn between points located on nodes. but which ones? In p3 symmetry group, a link starting from the primary node can reach 7 target nodes: 3 primary nodes located at 0, 120 and 240°, 3 secondary nodes located at 60, 180 and 300°... and the central node itself. The target angle is a value which will respectively be 0, 120, 240, 60, 180, 300, and SELF. In p4, there will be 9 possible targets: 0, 90, 180, 270, 45, 135, 225, 315 and SELF. Arabeske will prevent you from drawing links to nonexistent targets, like 30 in p4.

6. ...and finally, the display modes.

There are 5 modes in which you can draw or view the pattern before exporting it.

Blueprint

Nodes, textures and background picture (more on this later) are displayed. This is the typical editing mode.

Preview

Only links are displayed. This quickly gives a rough idea of the pattern./dd>

Help

Same as "preview", but the rotation centers and symmetry axes are displayed

Final

Links are drawn using the width given in the configuration window. Textures (see next chapter) are rendered if any. The render can take some time.

Interlace

Links are drawn and engraved, with interlacing effects "weaving" alternatively over then under the crossed links. Textures are rendered. This only works with straight lines.

Every mode allows PNG export, while only the two later allow EPS and POV-Ray export.

Tutorial 1: a pattern using rectangular links

Nothing could be simpler than this. Just set up your grid, choose your symmetry, and you are ready to go.

For the purpose of this tutorial, select a p4 symmetry. Change your rectangular spacing to 250 units. You may also change the grid color to some darkish grey, so that it won't be too intrusive. Leave the rest of the settings at the default. The angular spacing by the way, has no bearing here: it is used only in the making of the polar links.

Now draw a rectangular link. In the configuration window, click on Rect, then click-drag in the drawing area from, say, x, 0; y-250 to x 250, y 250. There's no need to be exact: just draw a line from 90 degrees below the center 250 units to the right.
As long as you don't do select anything else in the configuration window, Arabeske will remain in editable/new-rectangular-link state.
Just go to the bottom of the object properties window and make some changes there: from x=0, y=-250 to x=500, y=-250, hittingEnter after each value.
As mentioned earlier, x and y = 0 at the center; right and up are positive; left and bottom negative.
You can get an idea of what the exported version might look at by going to either the preview, final, or interlace mode.

Let's add some more Links. Since we are already in an add/edit rectangular link mode (it'll stay in this unless you click on some other action), all we have to do is draw the required link in the drawing area. Let's draw another link, joining the endpoint and the startpoints, as it were, to form a basic patern: from x=250, y=0 to x=500, y=-250. Looks like we have a basic star-like pattern. Take a peek in interlace mode to make sure.

Important: Arabeske has no undo. If you've created an extra link by mistake, or made a mistake that you think you can't rectify, don't worry: just click on Kill and the offending link disappears. Then you can redraw or make the changes you want.

You don't particularly care for such sharp angular designs? Well, no problem. Select the last link (click on Select, then on the link in the drawing area). You should see the editing handles appear on each end of the link. Drag the handle by its center along the x-axis, so that it is lying at the same height, but at 90 degrees  to the lower end. The figures should read thus:
From x=500, y=0 to x=500, y=-250.

Add another two rectangular LINKS, thus:
From x=0, y=-250 to x=0, y=0
and
From x=0, y=-250 to x=250, y=250

Take a look at it in interlace mode. Try making it a bit thicker (change thickness to 40) and decreasing groove to 25%.

You can, of course, create an intricate pattern by going back to blueprint mode and changing/adding to the links till, within no time, you have a beautiful pattern - ready to be exported to your favourite image-editing/3d program.

In the next part, we'll take a look at an even more powerful feature of Arabeske: the polar links.

Tutorial 2: ...and one with polar links.

There's really nothing dificult about this, either, when you take a closer look .

I assume you have the following settings: linear spacing: 250 units, angular spacing: 15 degrees. Use the blueprint mode and select a p4 symmetry.

Draw two nodes : click on Node in the configuration window, then click-drag in the drawing area: one primary node approximately of 450 units radius, and a secondary node of 300 units. The simplest way to do this could be to click-drag a rough circle, then go to the object properties window. Of course, the main primary node is drawn at the center, while the secondary node is drawn at a 45 degree angle some distance away from the center. Now you have two sets of circles drawn.

Now create a polar link: click on Polar, and draw a line from the bottom to the right of the middle circle: here comes a diamond-shaped pattern.

Change the "to angle" value to -45° and select a p4m symmetry. Here comes an octogonal pattern.

To get a better idea of what the final, exported, image would look like, go to interlace mode, change the thickness to 25 and engrave to 25%

If you get back to p4 symmetry, you will need a second link to get the same result: the group choice is important.

Now let's play around with nodes. First, drag the rightmost vertex of the link to the top right secondary node. Then adjust the end coordinates: To [2] Angle -125° Target 45°.

Now you have a star-shaped pattern. Select one of the nodes and change its radius: the pattern shape changes, while its structure does not. The link remains stuck to its nodes. Here is one of the strengths of polar coordinates: they allow a simple and precise tuning of a pattern without breaking its connectivity. And this strength is even more obvious in p3 and p6 group families.